Exfoliation is the removal of dead skin cells and built-up dirt from the skin's surface. The term comes from the Latin word exfoliare (to strip off leaves)[1]. This is a regular practice within the cosmetic industry, both for its outcome of promoting skin regeneration as well as providing a deep cleanse of the skin barrier. Being used in facials, this process can be achieved by mechanical or chemical means, such as microdermabrasion or chemical peels. Exfoliants are advertised as treatments that enhance beauty and promote a youthful and healthy appearance.
Mechanical Exfoliation edit
Mechanical exfoliation methods involve physically scrubbing the skin with an abrasive material. These types of exfoliants include micro-bead facial scrubs, sugar or salt crystals, pumice, and abrasive materials such as sponges, loofahs, brushes, and fingernails. A variety of facial scrubs are available in over-the-counter products for application by the user. People with dry skin should avoid exfoliants which have a significant portion of pumice, or crushed volcanic rock. Pumice is known as a material to exfoliate the skin of the feet.[2] Aside from microdermabrasion, dermaplaning is another mechanical method that exfoliates the epidermis by removing vellus hair.
Loofah edit
Loofahs are shower accessories that are commonly used for a dual purpose of cleaning and exfoliating the skin[3]. Loofahs are named for the tropical and subtropical gourd within the cucumber family that is used as the material to make the shower sponges[3]. As the loofah plant matures, its fibers dry out, allowing the shell left over to be used as the spongy material for the exfoliation tool after their seeds are removed and the gourd is sliced and shaped[3][4].
Loofahs offer benefits beyond exfoliation: they effectively spread soap around the body to cleanse and they stimulate blood circulation during use[3].
Because loofahs are porous, they are more susceptible to harboring bacteria and fungal organisms that could be harmful and cause infections[5]. Proper care for the loofah includes rinsing and drying the loofah after each use and soaking the loofah in a diluted solution of bleach to clean it weekly[5]. It is also recommended to replace a loofah every 3 to 4 weeks[5].
Exfoliation Net edit
Exfoliation nets are shower accessories used for exfoliation and lathering that are composed of nylon material in the form of knotted mesh nets[6]. Exfoliation nets are native to Ghana, but they are a familiar shower accessory in numerous countries in West Africa[6]. The shape and material allow exfoliation nets to dry quicker than typical sponges, so there is less accumulation of bacteria in the accessory[7].
Proper care for exfoliation nets includes leaving the net to hang dry between uses and cleaning it using a washing machine or hand-wash method weekly[6][7]. It is recommended that exfoliation nets are replaced every 1 to 2 years[6].
Micro-bead Scrubs edit
Micro-bead scrubs are cosmetic products that contain small plastic spheres that act as exfoliating components when scrubbed against skin[8]. The plastic beads act as alternatives for natural, eco-friendly exfoliating agents such as pumice, oatmeal, and walnut husks[8]. Microbeads are commonly composed of the material polyethylene terephthalate, or PET; however, they can also be made with other plastic materials as well[8].
When scrubbed against the skin, the beads polish the skin by removing the dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin[9]. The steps involved to use a micro-bead scrub include softening the skin using lukewarm water, gently scrubbing the product against the skin in circular motions, and rinsing the product off the skin[9].
Pumice edit
Pumice, which is an igneous rock that is composed of solidified lava that rapidly cools with gas bubbles being trapped inside of it, is commonly used as an exfoliating material[2]. Pumice is a decently abrasive material, making it useful as an exfoliating agent[2].
Pumice stone can be effectively used as an exfoliation tool on calluses or corns, often found on feet, to remove the dead skin cells.[10]
To effectively use a pumice stone as an exfoliation tool, soaking the affected area in warm water until the skin begins to soften is a recommended first step.[10] The pumice stone then must be wet before rubbing against the affected area with moderate pressure for about 2 to 3 minutes.[10]
Dermaplaning edit
The exfoliating process of dermaplaning requires a single blade razor resembling a scalpel called a dermatome.[11] The dermatome is gently dragged across the skin on the face to remove the top layer of dead skin cells and peach fuzz.[12] This process helps the skin to absorb products better and boost the production of collagen, which improves the texture and tightness of the skin.[12]
A common misconception is that the peach fuzz that is removed via dermaplaning will grow back thicker and darker, giving the appearance of a beard. This has been denied by dermaplaning specialists, who state that the removal of the dead skin and peach fuzz does not impact growth, color, or texture of facial hair.[12]
The procedure is recommended to be performed by an aesthetician.[11] In most cases, the blade must be used on clean, dry skin and covers the forehead, cheeks, chin, nose, and neck. However, dermaplaning can also be performed on skin that has oil applied to it.[13]
Chemical Exfoliation edit
History edit
Methods of chemical exfoliation for aesthetic enhancement of the skin have dated back to the time of the Ancient Egyptians, who used a combination of animal oils, alabaster, salt, and sour milk as an exfoliant to improve skin quality[14]. Various other chemical exfoliation techniques were developed in multiple other civilizations, such as Greek, Roman, Turkish, Indian, and Hungarian peoples[14].
Chemical exfoliation to lessen the appearance of freckles with phenol peeling was a method developed by Tilbury Fox in 1871, and from there the use of phenol peeling increased in popularity[14].
Methods edit
Chemical exfoliation methods, also known as chemical peeling, utilizes chemical substances in order to remove dead skin cells from the face. These types of exfoliants contain alpha-hydroxy acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid), beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid), polyhydroxy acids (lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, and galactose) or enzymes (trypsin or collagenase).[15][16][17][18] These chemicals weaken cell adhesion, allowing them to ease away. Out of these, only AHAs (alpha-hydroxyl acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxyl acids) are available on the market for daily use. While AHAs are applied to clear the outer layer of the skin, BHAs penetrate and clean it from within. These scrubs may be applied in high concentrations by medical professionals, or provided in lower concentrations via over-the-counter products. This type of exfoliation is recommended for people treating acne. In Continental European beauty spa treatments, wine-producing grapes are considered to have exfoliating properties and are used in the practice of vinotherapy.
Technological Exfoliation edit
Technological advances in the cosmetics industry have led to innovative exfoliation techniques, such as laser resurfacing.
Ablative Laser Resurfacing edit
Most commonly used for facial rejuvenation, this exfoliation process utilizes a laser to treat flaws on the skin surface. This method of exfoliation is most effective for treating wrinkles and discoloration. Carbon dioxide lasers, erbium lasers, and combinations of these are examples of the types of ablative lasers that are used in the resurfacing process[19].
The top outer layer of the skin is removed by the laser, which simultaneously heats the layer of skin lying beneath it. This process encourages collagen growth, which will improve the texture and tightness of the skin for a younger, rejuvenated look. The top layer of the skin will continue to heal and grow back to reveal a smoother and tighter appearance.[19]
Fractional versions of ablative lasers have also recently been developed. These are designed to leave minimal amounts of untreated tissue on the skin to ensure quicker healing time and less side effects.[19]
Ablative laser resurfacing has multiple risks associated with the exfoliation process. These risks include: redness, swelling, itching, pain, acne, infection, skin discoloration, and scarring.[19]
To have ablative laser resurfacing performed, one must consult with a doctor to review suitability of the procedure.[19]
Dermabrasion edit
Dermabrasion is used to reduce the appearance of flaws on facial skin, such as facial lines, wrinkles, scars, and discoloration. In this exfoliation process, a rapidly rotating device is used to remove the outermost layer of facial skin. [20]
Dermabrasion requires anesthetics to numb the skin before the procedure. Depending on the extent of the treatment, further numbing medication might be provided to limit the amount of pain felt from the treatment. [20]
There are multiple risks associating with dermabrasion. These risks include: redness, swelling, acne, enlarged pores, skin discoloration, infection, scarring, or rashes. In most cases, skin that is treated with dermabrasion will be sensitive with splotches of redness and discoloration for weeks following the procedure. [20]
Disadvantages edit
According to dermatologists, chemical or manual exfoliation is not medically necessary, as dead skin cells already exfoliate naturally, and excessive artificial exfoliation can break the skin's barrier against microorganisms and lead to infection, as well as tightness and sensitivity in the skin.[15] Artificial exfoliation can exacerbate dry, flaky skin, which needs moisturization for repair, and can result in some initial redness to the skin. Near the end of chemical peels, the skin frosts, with colors varying from a bright white to grey on the skin surface.
According to dermatologists, Exfoliation is a common term used in skincare and is often referred to as exfoliants, which are ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) and enzymes that remove dead skin cells and reveal new, healthy skin. Exfoliation has become a buzzword in the beauty industry now and is often paired with the term "chemical exfoliation", which is often used in place of the more commonly used "microdermabrasion". However, derms say there is no scientific evidence to prove the necessity of exfoliation. According to dermatologists, chemical or manual exfoliation is not medically necessary, as dead skin cells already exfoliate naturally.
Marine environmental impact of microbeads edit
See also: Microbeads § Environmental effects
Microbead particles used in mechanical exfoliation are too small (less than 1 mm) to be caught by sewage works, so large amounts of microbeads are released into the environment, which damage marine ecosystems. Consequently, in June 2014, Illinois became the first American state to ban the use of microbeads, and cosmetics manufacturers such as L'Oreal, Johnson & Johnson, and Colgate agreed to use more natural ingredients.
References edit
- ^ "Definition of EXFOLIATION". www.merriam-webster.com. Retrieved 2022-11-04.
- ^ a b c Sanchez, April (2022-05-01). "What is Pumice?". Envirofluid. Retrieved 2022-11-04.
- ^ a b c d "Loofah Sponge: What to Know About Using It to Clean and Exfoliate". Healthline. 2019-09-05. Retrieved 2022-11-04.
- ^ "The history of the loofah". The Spectator. Retrieved 2022-11-04.
- ^ a b c "Do You Know What's Growing on Your Loofah?". Cleveland Clinic. 2020-05-13. Retrieved 2022-11-04.
- ^ a b c d "All About the African Bath Sponge". Holy Raw. Retrieved 2022-11-04.
- ^ a b "African Exfoliating Net". Cee Cee's Closet NYC. Retrieved 2022-11-04.
- ^ a b c "Microbeads". CT.gov - Connecticut's Official State Website. Retrieved 2022-11-04.
- ^ a b "How To Use A Body Scrub: Benefits & A Step-By-Step Guide". Eminence Organic Skin Care. Retrieved 2022-11-04.
- ^ a b c "Calluses and Corns: Using Pumice Stones". myhealth.alberta.ca. Retrieved 2022-12-16.
- ^ a b Sreenivas, Shishira. "What Is Dermaplaning?". WebMD. Retrieved 2022-12-16.
- ^ a b c "What is dermaplaning? Everything you need to know about the skin treatment". TODAY.com. Retrieved 2022-12-16.
- ^ "Why TikTok Thinks You Should Be Dermaplaning With Face Oil". The Zoe Report. Retrieved 2022-12-16.
- ^ a b c Brody, Harold J.; Monheit, Gary D.; Resnik, Sorrel S.; Alt, Thomas H. (May 2000). "A History of Chemical Peeling". Dermatologic Surgery. 26 (5): 405–409. doi:10.1046/j.1524-4725.2000.00505.x. ISSN 1076-0512.
- ^ a b "Exfoliating isn't necessary. But if you do it, follow the tips from these dermatologists". Washington Post. ISSN 0190-8286. Retrieved 2022-12-16.
- ^ "Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA): Types, benefits, and how to use". www.medicalnewstoday.com. 2021-04-20. Retrieved 2022-12-16.
- ^ Nutrition, Center for Food Safety and Applied (2022-03-03). "Beta Hydroxy Acids". FDA.
- ^ "Everything You Need to Know About PHAs, the Gentlest Chemical Exfoliant for Sensitive Skin". Good Housekeeping. 2021-02-24. Retrieved 2022-12-16.
- ^ a b c d e "Laser resurfacing - Mayo Clinic". www.mayoclinic.org. Retrieved 2022-12-16.
- ^ a b c "Dermabrasion - Mayo Clinic". www.mayoclinic.org. Retrieved 2022-12-16.