Piper Kelly (born October 3, 1999) is an American competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing. She won a gold medal in her event at the 2023 Pan American Games and is part of the 2024 US Olympic Team.

Piper Kelly
Kelly with a silver medal at the 2019 US Sport & Speed Open National Championships
Personal information
Born (1999-10-03) October 3, 1999 (age 25)
Indianapolis, Indiana, U.S.
EducationXavier University
Height165 cm (5 ft 5 in)
Climbing career
Type of climberSpeed
Sport
Coached byAlbert Ok
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing the  United States
Pan American Games
Gold medal – first place 2023 Santiago Speed

Early life and education

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Kelly was born on October 3, 1999, in Indianapolis,[1] began climbing at age seven,[2] and began competing in climbing at age 12.[3] After graduating from Irvington Prep Academy in Indianapolis,[2] she majored in exercise science as a student at Xavier University in Cincinnati, Ohio.[4][5] She credits her small class sizes at Xavier for allowing her to focus on the biomechanics of climbing in her studies.[5] She graduated in 2023, with minors in psychology and Spanish.[4]

Competition results

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Kelly has three international podiums, all first place.[6] At the 2017 Pan American Youth Climbing Championships in Montreal, Canada, she placed first in the Juniors category.[7] At the 2018 International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Pan American Championship in Guayaquil, Ecuador, she won the speed championship at the senior level.[4] After repeated shoulder dislocations,[1] she took a break from competing for nearly two years beginning in 2020 for shoulder surgery.[2] At the 2023 Pan American Games, she was the gold medalist in the women's speed climbing event, after the top seed, her teammate Emma Hunt, suffered a false start in the final race. Kelly had to re-run the race alone after the false start, achieving her personal best official time, 7.52 seconds.[8] As of 2024, her ranking from IFSC World Cup events places her 9th in the world among women speed climbers.[6]

2024 Olympics

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In 2019, when Kelly won the youth nationals, she already stated "I'm not ruling it out" regarding competing in the 2024 Summer Olympics.[9] Her win at the 2023 Pan Am Games gave her a place on the US Olympic team, part of the sport climbing event there,[3] as one of only 14 competitors in women's speed.[5] As Hunt already qualified for the Olympics from placing second in the 2023 World Championships, Kelly secured her position in the Olympics by reaching the final race against Hunt, even before she won.[8]

In the qualification seeding round of the Olympics, Kelly received the 9th seed for the elimination rounds with the best time 7.39. She finished the competition after Indonesia's Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi eliminated her in the next round and placed in the 13th position.

Major results

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Olympic Games

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Discipline 2024
Speed 13

World championships

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Discipline 2018 2019 2021 2023
Speed 23 26

World Cup

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Discipline 2018 2019 2021 2022 2023 2024
Speed 37 27 28 20

References

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  1. ^ a b Payne, Laura (May 31, 2024), "Piper Kelly", Britannica, retrieved 2024-07-09
  2. ^ a b c Piper Kelly's climb to the Olympics started in Indianapolis, WTHR, November 14, 2023, retrieved 2024-07-09
  3. ^ a b Benbow, Dana Hunsinger (December 13, 2023), "'Nothing's out of reach:' Indy's speed climber phenom Piper Kelly headed to Paris Olympics", Indianapolis Star, retrieved 2024-07-09
  4. ^ a b c "Olympics 2024: Piper Kelly", UK Climbing, retrieved 2024-07-09
  5. ^ a b c Burke, Addison (April 23, 2024), "Climbing to The Highest Stage: Piper Kelly Heads to The Olympics", Xavier Newswire, retrieved 2024-07-10
  6. ^ a b "Piper Kelly", Athlete profiles, International Federation of Sport Climbing, retrieved 2024-07-09
  7. ^ "Montreal Pan-Am Youth Championships 2017 Results", Gripped, November 6, 2017, retrieved 2024-07-09
  8. ^ a b Miller, Delaney (October 21, 2023), "American Speed Climber Piper Kelly Punches Ticket to Olympics", Climbing, retrieved 2024-07-09
  9. ^ Benbow, Dana Hunsinger (April 9, 2019), "Indy's speed climbing phenom Piper Kelly, 19, ranked among best in the world", Indianapolis Star, retrieved 2024-07-09
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