Wikipedia

2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships

The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships was the 17th edition of the competition climbing event. It was held in Moscow, Russia from 16 to 21 September 2021, alongside the 2021 IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships.[3]

2021 World Championships
Logo of the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships
VenueIrina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace and CSKA Universal Sports Hall[1]
LocationRussia Moscow, Russia
Dates16–21 September 2021
Competitors302[1] from 41[2] nations
Irina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace, venue for the final rounds of all three disciplines

Although the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) had banned Russia from hosting or bidding for a world championship event in any sport until December 2022 due to several doping violations, the IFSC announced in February 2021 that the event would remain in Russia, echoing the Court of Arbitration for Sport's ruling that events had to be reassigned "unless it is legally or practically impossible to do so."[4]

Two venues were used during the championships: the Irina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace and the CSKA Universal Sports Hall.[2]

Medalists

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Event Gold Silver Bronze
Men's Lead   Jakob Schubert (AUT)   Luka Potočar (SLO)   Hamish McArthur (GBR)
Men's Bouldering   Kokoro Fujii (JPN)   Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)   Manuel Cornu (FRA)
Men's Speed   Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)   Erik Noya Cardona (ESP)   Noah Bratschi (USA)
Men's Combined   Yannick Flohé (GER)   Philipp Martin (GER)   Fedir Samoilov (UKR)
Women's Lead   Seo Chae-hyun (KOR)   Natalia Grossman (USA)   Laura Rogora (ITA)
Women's Bouldering   Natalia Grossman (USA)   Camilla Moroni (ITA)   Staša Gejo (SRB)
Women's Speed   Natalia Kałucka (POL)   Iuliia Kaplina (CFR)[a]   Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
Women's Combined   Jessica Pilz (AUT)   Mia Krampl (SLO)   Elnaz Rekabi (IRI)

Medal table

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  *   Host nation ( Climbing Federation of Russia)

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1  Austria2002
2  United States1113
3  Germany1102
  Japan1102
5  Poland1012
  Ukraine1012
7  South Korea1001
8  Slovenia0202
9  Italy0112
10  Climbing Federation of Russia*0101
  Spain0101
12  France0011
  Great Britain0011
  Iran0011
  Serbia0011
Totals (15 entries)88824

Broadcast incident

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On 18 September, the IFSC issued an apology after broadcasters showed a close-up of chalk handprints on Austrian climber Joanna Färber's bottom during the women's bouldering semi-finals in the event live feed. The federation removed the feed from its YouTube channel and re-uploaded an edited video without the footage it described as "objectification of the human body." This incident marked the second time in the season that the IFSC apologised for sexualised imagery, after a similar footage of Färber appeared on the live feed of the Innsbruck World Cup in June 2021.[6]

Schedule

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All times and dates use Moscow Time (UTC+3:00)[7]

Q Qualifications SF Semi-finals F Finals
B Bouldering L Lead S Speed
September 2021 16th
Thu 		17th
Fri 		18th
Sat 		19th
Sun 		20th
Mon 		21st
Tue
Men S S B B B L L L
Women B B

Lead

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Men

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Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[8]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1   Jakob Schubert 38 3 33+ 5 4.69 40+ TOP
2   Luka Potočar 36+ 8 29+ 9 9.25 40+ TOP
3   Hamish McArthur 38 3 33+ 5 3.32 TOP 46+
4   Martin Stráník 36+ 8 28 18 13.44 40+ 46
5   Tomoa Narasaki 37+ 6 36+ 1 2.55 38 46
6   Sebastian Halenke 36 12 30 8 10.39 40 44+
7   Yoshiyuki Ogata 36+ 8 35 2 4.87 37+ 44+
8   Stefano Ghisolfi 36 12 26 29 19.79 40 34+

Women

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Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[9]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1   Seo Chae-hyun TOP 1 TOP 1 1.73 TOP TOP
2   Natalia Grossman TOP 1 41 4 2.45 TOP 37 (4:22)
3   Laura Rogora 44 3 TOP 1 2.45 TOP 37 (5:01)
4   Jessica Pilz 36+ 9 37+ 17 13.44 41+ 36+
5   Brooke Raboutou 37+ 5 40+ 5 5.48 39+ 35+
6   Natsuki Tanii 42 19 38+ 14 26.52 41+ 32+
7   Dinara Fakhritdinova 37+ 5 39+ 6 7.55 39+ 32+
8   Salomé Romain 34+ 13 37+ 17 16.88 40 25+

Bouldering

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Men

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Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[10]
1   Kokoro Fujii 5t5z 9 6 2t4z 3 12 4t4z 6 6
2   Tomoa Narasaki 4t45z 8 6 3t3z 7 5 3t3z 6 6
3   Manuel Cornu 4t5z 13 11 3t3z 8 5 2t3z 2 3
4   Aleksey Rubtsov 3t5z 6 7 2t3z 9 6 2t3z 7 5
5   Nimrod Marcus 3t4z 10 11 2t3z 3 5 0t2z 0 9
6   Anže Peharc 4t5z 11 8 2t3z 7 7 0t2z 0 10

Women

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Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[11]
1   Natalia Grossman 4t5z 8 11 4t4z 8 8 4t4z 7 7
2   Camilla Moroni 3t4z 7 14 4t4z 15 13 4t4z 13 11
3   Staša Gejo 4t4z 11 6 2t4z 4 9 2t4z 5 7
4   Elena Krasovskaia 4t5z 8 8 3t4z 8 9 2t3z 2 4
5   Brooke Raboutou 5t5z 8 6 3t3z 11 11 2t3z 3 4
6   Andrea Kümin 3t5z 5 8 3t3z 11 9 1t3z 3 3

Speed

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Men

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Final bracket[12]
Round of 16QuarterfinalsSemifinalsFinal
              
1
  Marcin Dzieński		5.83
16
  Rishat Khaibullin		5.76
  Rishat KhaibullinFall
  Danyil Boldyrev5.80
8
  Danyil Boldyrev		5.844
9
  Gian Luca Zodda		5.849
  Danyil Boldyrev6.14
  Guillaume Moro6.47
4
  John Brosler		5.72
13
  Aleksandr Shikov		Fall
  John BroslerFall
  Guillaume Moro7.76
5
  Arsenii Bogomolov		6.07
12
  Guillaume Moro		5.75
  Danyil Boldyrev5.73
  Erik Noya Cardona5.95
2
  Dmitrii Timofeev		Fall
15
  Tobias Plangger		6.01
  Tobias Plangger5.98
  Erik Noya Cardona5.87
7
  Reza Alipour		5.75
10
  Erik Noya Cardona		5.70
  Erik Noya Cardona5.74
  Noah Bratschi6.06 Third place
3
  Vladislav Deulin		6.06
14
  Pierre Rebreyend		6.17
  Vladislav DeulinFall  Guillaume Moro8.46
  Noah Bratschi5.84   Noah Bratschi6.31
6
  Noah Bratschi		5.77
11
  Amir Maimuratov		5.91

Women

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Final bracket[13]
Round of 16QuarterfinalsSemifinalsFinal
              
1
  Aleksandra Mirosław		7.37
16
  Laura Stöckler		12.37
  Aleksandra Mirosław7.10
  Capucine Viglione7.55
8
  Capucine Viglione		7.67
9
  Patrycja Chudziak		7.72
  Aleksandra MirosławFall
  Natalia Kałucka7.07
4
  Natalia Kałucka		7.44
13
  Aleksandra Kałucka		7.87
  Natalia Kałucka7.15
  Elizaveta Ivanova7.30
5
  Elizaveta Ivanova		7.69
12
  Beatrice Colli		8.13
  Natalia Kałucka7.18
  Iuliia Kaplina8.94
2
  Iuliia Kaplina		7.31
15
  Franziska Ritter		8.06
  Iuliia Kaplina7.60
  Anna BrozekFall
7
  Anna Brozek		7.73
10
  Mariia Krasavina		8.17
  Iuliia Kaplina7.09
  Ekaterina Barashchuk8.89 Third place
3
  Emma Hunt		9.29
14
  Yelyzaveta Lavrykova		Fall
  Emma Hunt9.41  Aleksandra Mirosław7.00
  Ekaterina Barashchuk7.61   Ekaterina Barashchuk8.47
6
  Ekaterina Barashchuk		7.58
11
  Andrea Rojas		8.16

Combined

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Men

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Rank Name Lead Bouldering Speed Total[14]
Rank Pts Rank Pts Rank Pts
    Yannick Flohé 9 1 15 1 42 9 9.0
    Philipp Martin 22 3 23 2 41 8 48.0
    Fedir Samoilov 19 2 41 3 43 10 60.0
4   Jan Hojer 32 4 43 4 32 4 64.0
5   Carlos Granja 60 5 69 7 19 2 70.0
6   Kostiantyn Pavlenko 89 9 85 10 17 1 90.0
7   Lin Chia-hsiang 72 7 55 6 37 6 252.0
8   Sergii Topishko 65 6 47 5 48 15 450.0
9   Nickolaie Rivadeneira 91 10 85 10 34 5 500.0
10   Yaroslav Tkach 96 14 94 13 30 3 546.0
11   Aaron Peñaranda 83 8 85 10 39 7 560.0
12   Gaurav Kumar 93 11.5 85 10 46 13 1495.0
13   Ferhat Bekmez 97 15 85 10 44 11 1650.0
14   Joshua Bruyns 93 11.5 96 14 45 12 1932.0
15   Timur Taş 95 13 97 15 47 14 2730.0

Women

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Rank Name Lead Bouldering Speed Total[15]
Rank Pts Rank Pts Rank Pts
    Jessica Pilz 4 1 35 5 24 4 20.0
    Mia Krampl 19 3 29 4 23 3 36.0
    Elnaz Rekabi 35 7 18 1 27 6 42.0
4   Tamara Ulzhabayeva 61 10 43 7.5 18 1 75.0
5   Hannah Meul 22 4 23 2.5 33 9 90.0
6   Roxana Wienand 31 5 23 2.5 30 8 100.0
7   Ievgeniia Kazbekova 17 2 37 6 36 11 132.0
8   Tetiana Kolkotina 69 11 73 11 20 2 242.0
9   Mahya Darabian 50 8 49 9 25 5 360.0
10   Margaryta Zakharova 57 9 43 7.5 28 7 472.5
11   Nika Potapova 33 6 63 10 35 10 600.0

Notes

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  1. ^ Results of Russian athletes are credited to the Climbing Federation of Russia (CFR).[5]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b Более 300 спортсменов выступят на Чемпионате мира по скалолазанию в Москве
  2. ^ a b Shefferd, Neil (16 September 2021). "Boldyrev and Kalucka take speed titles on opening day of IFSC World Championships". inside the games. Retrieved 17 September 2021.
  3. ^ "World Championships Schedule and Livestream Links". GymClimber. 15 September 2021. Retrieved 17 September 2021.
  4. ^ Rest, Jonathan (19 February 2021). "IFSC stands by World Championships in Russia despite WADA hosting ban". Sportcal.
  5. ^ Dunbar, Graham (17 December 2020). "Russia can't use its name and flag at the next 2 Olympics". Associated Press News. Retrieved 17 September 2021.
  6. ^ Lock, Samantha (20 September 2021). "Close-up Footage of Climber's Butt Prompts Apology From Sporting Body". Newsweek. Retrieved 23 September 2021.
  7. ^ "IFSC - Climbing World Championships (B,L,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2021". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
  8. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - General result Men lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on 2021-09-21. Retrieved 21 September 2021.
  9. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - General result Women lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on 2021-09-21. Retrieved 21 September 2021.
  10. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - GENERAL RESULT BOULDER Men". IFSC. Archived from the original on 2021-09-18. Retrieved 20 September 2021.
  11. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - GENERAL RESULT BOULDER WOMEN". IFSC. Archived from the original on 2021-09-18. Retrieved 18 September 2021.
  12. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT SPEED MEN". IFSC. Retrieved 18 September 2021.
  13. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT SPEED WOMEN". IFSC. Retrieved 18 September 2021.
  14. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT COMBINED MEN". IFSC. Retrieved 23 September 2021.
  15. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT COMBINED WOMEN". IFSC. Retrieved 23 September 2021.
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