Bouldering at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The 2018 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 20th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were held at seven stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 13 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 18 August with the World Cup in Munich. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds are conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Jernej Kruder won the seasonal title in the men's competition and Miho Nonaka won the women's. Japan won the national team competition.

Bouldering
at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Jernej Kruder, SLO winner of the world cup season
Location Meiringen, Switzerland

Moscow, Russia
Chongqing, China
Tai'an, China
Hachiōji, Japan
Vail, United States

Munich, Germany
Dates13 April – 18 August 2018
Champions
MenSlovenia Jernej Kruder
WomenJapan Miho Nonaka

Changes from the previous season

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For the 2018 season the IFSC changed the scoring method for its tournaments. Previously topped boulders were the deciding factor, followed as tiebreakers in decreasing order of importance: attempts to tops, bonus holds (renamed to zones), and attempts to bonus holds. The first and second tiebreakers switched places which means that the results were determined by tops, zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones.[1]

Also athletes now need to demonstrate firm control of the two starting hand holds. Previously touching all four marked start points in any manner was deemed sufficient to start an attempt.

Overall ranking

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Winners 2018 Men: 1st place: Jernej Kruder, 2nd place: Tomoa Narasaki, 3rd place: Rei Sugimoto
 
Winners 2018 Women: 1st place: Miho Nonaka, 2nd place: Akiyo Noguchi, 3rd place: Fanny Gibert

The overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season, but only the best six attempts were counted. The national ranking was the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) were not counted.

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[2]

Rank Name Points Munich Vail Hachiōji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1   Jernej Kruder 442.00 2. 80.00 4. 55.00 8. (38.00) 2. 80.00 6. 47.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00
2   Tomoa Narasaki 400.00 9. 35.00 3. 65.00 2. 80.00 8. 40.00 11. (31.00) 1. 100.00 2. 80.00
3   Rei Sugimoto 334.00 8. 40.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 12. (28.00) 10. 34.00 8. 40.00
4   Alexey Rubtsov 296.00 14. (23.00) 9. 37.00 5. 51.00 12. 27.00 3. 65.00 5. 51.00 3. 65.00
5   Gregor Vezonik 280.00 1. 100.00 14. 24.00 3. 65.00 13. 26.00 3. 65.00
6   Kokoro Fujii 260.00 7. 43.00 18. (16.00) 16. 20.00 5. 51.00 1. 100.00 17. 18.00 12. 28.00
7   Jongwon Chon 247.00 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00
8   Tomoaki Takata 218.00 17. 18.00 6. 47.00 11. 31.00 10. 34.00 25. (5.00) 9. 37.00 5. 51.00
9   Yuji Fujiwaki 207.00 5. 51.00 8. 40.00 13. 26.00 11. 31.00 15. 22.00 28. (3.00) 9. 37.00
9   Jakob Schubert 207.00 3. 65.00 12. 27.00 4. 55.00 25. 5.00 4. 55.00

Women

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[3]

Rank Name Points Munich Vail Hachiōji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1   Miho Nonaka 500.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. (80.00) 1. 100.00
2   Akiyo Noguchi 495.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 3. (65.00)
3   Fanny Gibert 320.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00 3. 65.00 8. (40.00) 5. 51.00 5. 51.00
4   Janja Garnbret 280.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00
5   Katja Kadic 246.00 5. 51.00 23. (7.00) 11. 31.00 7. 43.00 6. 47.00 10. 34.00 8. 40.00
6   Staša Gejo 222.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 3. 65.00 15. 22.00 13. 25.00
7   Ekaterina Kipriianova 210.00 6. 47.00 3. 65.00 10. 34.00 4. 55.00 21. 9.00
8   Futaba Ito 179.00 7. 43.00 6. 47.00 13. 26.00 16. 20.00 8. 40.00 27. 3.00
9   Shauna Coxsey 174.00 7. 43.00 9. 37.00 6. 47.00 6. 47.00
10   Alma Bestvater 168.00 12. 28.00 6. 47.00 5. 51.00 23. 7.00 12. 28.00 23. 7.00

National Teams

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The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[4]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points Munich Vail Hachiōji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1   2269 (337) 387 419 363 371 362 367
2   Slovenia 1344 345 (108) 109 208 139 310 233
3   France 823 163 (91) 102 111 197 93 157
4   Austria 735 173 61 (22) 110 154 64 173
5   Russian Federation 591 85 (37) 144 101 121 72 68
6   Germany 534 103 143 69 58 112 49 (27)
7   United States 503 15 284 86 57 9 (3) 52
8   Republic of Korea 418 0 81 75 89 98 75
9   Great Britain 366 21 74 101 30 (19) 47 93
10   Italy 269 22 (1) 139 24 7 48 29

Meiringen, Switzerland (13–14 April)

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Women

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99 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Miho Nonaka (4T4z 5 5) won the competition in front of Janja Garnbret (4T4z 7 5).[5]

Rank Name Score
1   Miho Nonaka 4T4z 5 5
2   Janja Garnbret 4T4z 7 5
3   Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 9 9
4   Sandra Lettner 3T4z 5 5
5   Fanny Gibert 3T3z 4 3
6   Shauna Coxsey 2T4z 5 11

109 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Jernej Kruder (3T4z 7 8) won the competition in front of Tomoa Narasaki (2T4z 3 7).[5]

Rank Name Score
1   Jernej Kruder 3T4z 7 8
2   Tomoa Narasaki 2T4z 3 7
3   Alexey Rubtsov 2T4z 5 13
4   Jakob Schubert 2T3z 7 8
5   Tamoaki Takata 1T3z 3 5
6   Jongwon Chon 1T2z 1 2
7   Manuel Cornu 0T3z 0 9

Moscow, Russia (21–22 April)

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Women

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100 athletes attended the World Cup in Moscow. Janja Garnbret (4T4z 7 5) won the competition in front of Miho Nonaka (4T4z 7 5),[6] thereby reversing their finish order from Meiringen. As Garnbret and Nonoka achieved identical scores in the final their semi-final scores were used to determine final standings. Akiyo Noguchi, Fanny Gibert, and Shauna Coxsey came in 3rd, 5th, and 6th respectively, thus repeating their exact results from Meiringen. Petra Klingler completed the final in 4th place.

Rank Name Score
1   Janja Garnbret 4T4z 7 5
2   Miho Nonaka 4T4z 7 5
3   Akiyo Noguchi 3T4z 8 9
4   Petra Klingler 3T4z 9 10
5   Fanny Gibert 2T3z 2 3
6   Shauna Coxsey 1T3z 4 6

109 athletes attended the World Cup in Moscow. Tomoa Narasaki (4T4z 12 12) won the competition in front of Jernej Kruder (3T4z 5 6).[6] Thus –as in the women's competition– the winner and runner-up from Meiringen switched places. Jongwon Chon and Alexey Rubtsov also managed back to back final appearances.

Rank Name Score
1   Tomoa Narasaki 4T4z 12 12
2   Jernej Kruder 3T4z 5 6
3   Gregor Vezonik 3T4z 6 9
4   Jongwon Chon 3T4z 9 18
5   Alexey Rubtsov 2T4z 4 27
6   Gabriele Moroni 2T3z 7 14

Chongqing, China (5–6 May)

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The Chongqing World Cup was held outdoors and is affected by humidity to a greater extent than the European hosted World Cups. A lightning storm before the semi-finals made conditions difficult for climbers. The routesetting used a large number of volumes which exhausted Gecko King's inventory.[7]

Women

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47 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Akiyo Noguchi (4T4z 5 5) won the competition in front of Miho Nonaka (3T3z 7 7). They led from the start as the only two competitors to top the first problem, a burly overhang with a feet first start.[7] Janja Garnbret and Shauna Coxsey, who had made the finals of both previous World Cups did not attend Chongqing.[8]

Notably Gejo finished in front of Kipriianova for the bronze medal, a result that would have been reversed under the old scoring rules. This was the first time that results under the new system, which weights zones (bonuses) above attempts, differed from that of the old system.[9]

Rank Name Score
1   Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 5 5
2   Miho Nonaka 3T3z 7 7
3   Staša Gejo 1T3z 2 7
4   Ekaterina Kipriianova 1T1z 1 1
5   Jessica Pilz 1T1z 2 1
6   Katja Kadic 1T1z 4 4

83 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Of the four final problem the first one was flashed by all competitors, and the fourth yielded no points for anyone, thus the final standings were effectively decided by the second and fourth boulder only. Kokoro Fujii (3T3z 9 8) won the competition in front of Sean McColl (2T3z 2 4). Jernej Kruder and Alexey Rubtsov had their third straight finals appearances this season.[8] Jongwon Chon was not competing because of a scheduling clash with the South Korean Asian Games qualifications.[7]

Rank Name Score
1   Kokoro Fujii 3T3z 9 8
2   Sean McColl 2T3z 2 4
3   Alexey Rubtsov 2T3z 5 7
4   Jakob Schubert 2T2z 2 2
5   Jan Hojer 1T3z 1 3
6   Jernej Kruder 1T2z 1 3

Tai'an, China (12–13 May)

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Women

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47 athletes attended the World Cup in Tai'an. Just as in Chongqing Akiyo Noguchi (4T4z 5 5) and Miho Nonaka (4T4z 10 7) dominated the women's final, each finishing two tops ahead of the competition. Noguchi claimed her second straight win while Nonaka continued her streak of finishing at least second in each bouldering competition this season.

Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret and Petra Klingler were not competing.[10]

Rank Name Score
1   Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 5 5
2   Miho Nonaka 4T4z 10 7
3   Fanny Gibert 2T3z 6 7
4   Staša Gejo 1T3z 3 7
5   Johanna Färber 1T3z 4 10
6   Kyra Condie 0T3z 0 5

93 athletes attended the World Cup in Tai'an. The final was decided on the final problem after all climbers achieved scores on the first three problems. Alex Khazanov (3T4z 7 9) was the only athlete to top the last boulder, and thus won the World Cup in front of Jernej Kruder (2T4z 2 5), the only climber to reach all finals of the season.

Rank Name Score
1   Alex Khazanov 3T4z 7 9
2   Jernej Kruder 2T4z 2 5
3   Gregor Vezonik 2T4z 4 10
4   Rei Sugimoto 2T4z 4 10
5   Kokoro Fujii 2T4z 7 5
6   Jongwon Chon 2T3z 6 6

Hachioji, Japan (2–3 June)

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Women

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68 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. As in the two preceding World Cups Akiyo Noguchi (3T3z 5 5) won in front of Miho Nonaka (3T3z 6 6). After the World Cup Noguchi and Nonaka thus led the competition for the seasonal title by a sufficient margin to leave only them in contention for first and second place.[11]

Rank Name Score
1   Akiyo Noguchi 3T3z 5 5
2   Miho Nonaka 3T3z 6 6
3   Ekaterina Kipriianova 2T2z 6 5
4   Staša Gejo 0T2z 0 5
5   Alma Bestvater 0T2z 0 6
6   Futaba Ito 0T1z 0 9

91 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. Gabriele Moroni (2T4z 3 6) won his first World Cup in his career of more than ten years. Tomoa Narasaki (1T3z 1 6) came in second. Jernej Kruder missed the finals for the first time in the season.

Rank Name Score
1   Gabriele Moroni 2T4z 3 6
2   Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 1 6
3   Rei Sugimoto 1T3z 4 8
4   Jongwon Chon 1T2z 2 6
5   Alexey Rubtsov 0T2z 0 4
6   Kai Harada 0T1z 0 8

Vail, United States (8–9 June)

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Women

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58 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Alex Puccio (3T3z 6 4) won, attending her first World Cup of the 2018 season. The second place went to Miho Nonaka (2T3z 3 4), who continued her streak of finishing at least second in all World Cups of the season. The winner of the three previous World Cups, Akiyo Noguchi (1T3z 2 6), came in third, winning her tenth consecutive medal at Bouldering World Cups.

Rank Name Score
1   Alex Puccio 3T3z 6 4
2   Miho Nonaka 2T3z 3 4
3   Akiyo Noguchi 1T3z 2 6
4   Fanny Gibert 1T1z 5 2
5   Kyra Condie 0T2z 0 4
6   Alma Bestvater 0T1z 0 8

91 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Rei Sugimoto (3T4z 4 5) won in front of Sean Bailey (2T4z 2 6).

Rank Name Score
1   Rei Sugimoto 3T4z 4 5
2   Sean Bailey 2T4z 2 6
3   Tomoa Narasaki 2T4z 3 5
4   Jernej Kruder 0T4z 0 7
5   Ryuichi Murai 0T4z 0 8
6   Tomoaki Takata 0T3z 0 15

Munich, Germany (17–18 August)

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Women

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102 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Janja Garnbret (4T4z 4 4) won, solving each problem in her first attempt. The second place went to Miho Nonaka (4T4z 5 5), who thus claimed the overall Bouldering World Cup title. The third place in Munich and the second place overall went to Akiyo Noguchi (4T4z 7 6).[12]

Rank Name Score
1   Janja Garnbret 4T4z 4 4
2   Miho Nonaka 4T4z 5 5
3   Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 7 6
4   Fanny Gibert 1T4z 1 8
5   Katja Kadic 1T2z 1 5
6   Ekaterina Kipriianova 0T3z 0 5

128 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. The seasonal overall Bouldering title was decided after the semi-finals when Tomoa Narasaki failed to advance to the finals. Jernej Kruder thus secured the overall title regardless of his eventual finish in the Munich men's final. Gregor Vezonik (2T4z 2 13) won the competition with Kruder (2T3z 9 7) coming second and Jakob Schubert (2T3z 9 11) finishing in third place.[12]

Rank Name Score
1   Gregor Vezonik 2T4z 2 13
2   Jernej Kruder 2T3z 9 7
3   Jakob Schubert 2T3z 9 11
4   Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T3z 11 13
5   Yuji Fujiwaki 2T2z 5 5
6   Mickaël Mawem 1T2z 1 3

References

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  1. ^ "Starting now: the 2018 IFSC World Cup Season". BMC. 12 April 2018. Retrieved 18 April 2018.
  2. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  3. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  4. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking".
  5. ^ a b "Meiringen 2018: Nonaka and Kruder take the gold in a great final". OnBouldering.com. 14 April 2018. Retrieved 18 April 2018.
  6. ^ a b "Narasaki and Garnbret claim the gold in Moscow". OnBouldering.com. 22 April 2018. Retrieved 23 April 2018.
  7. ^ a b c John Burgman (8 May 2018). "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chongqing World Cup 2018—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing.com. Retrieved 15 May 2018.
  8. ^ a b "Double gold for Japan, Noguchi and Fujii win in Chongqing". OnBouldering.com. 6 May 2018. Retrieved 6 May 2018.
  9. ^ IFSC. "IFSC Climbing World Cup Chongqing 2018 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women". Retrieved 15 May 2018 – via YouTube.
  10. ^ John Burgman. "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Tai'an World Cup 2018—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing. Retrieved 16 May 2018.
  11. ^ "No rest allowed, time for Vail 2018". OnBouldering.com. 7 June 2018. Retrieved 8 June 2018.
  12. ^ a b "Double gold for Slovenia. Nonaka and Kruder, overall champions". OnBouldering.com. 18 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.