Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.

Jan Hojer
Hojer in 2018
Personal information
NationalityGerman
Born (1992-02-09) February 9, 1992 (age 32)
Cologne, Germany
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height188 cm (6 ft 2 in)
Weight77 kg (170 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Ape index+10 cm (4 in)
Highest grade
Known forWinning one World Cup and two European Championships
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  Germany
World Championships
Silver medal – second place 2014 Munich/Gijón Combined
Bronze medal – third place 2014 Munich Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2018 Innsbruck Combined
World Cup
Winner 2014 Bouldering
Second place 2015 Bouldering
European Championships
Gold medal – first place 2015 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2017 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2017 Combined
The World Games
Silver medal – second place 2017 Bouldering
Updated on 21 September 2018
Hojer competing at the World Cup, Munich, 2015
Hojer, 2015
Hojer second at the World Cup 2015

Climbing career

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Competition climbing

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Hojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, he quit competing in that discipline in 2011 and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships. He won the seasonal title of the Bouldering Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finished second in 2015.[1]

In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in Bouldering.[1] Also in 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Games in Wroclaw, Poland.

Hojer has won national championships in all climbing disciplines. He won the lead in 2008, 2017, and 2019. In bouldering he won in 2011, 2014, 2015, and 2016, finished second in 2017, and has not competed since. Hojer won the first German National Championship in the combined format in 2018, and in 2019 he won the only discipline that he hadn't won yet, speed.

In 2019 Hojer qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics through his performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier event in Toulouse.[2] Hojer finished 12th out of 20 at the Tokyo Olympics.

Rock climbing

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He also obtained outstanding results in outdoor climbing. In May 2010, he redpointed the sport climbing route, Action Directe. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several outdoor bouldering problems at the grade of 8C (V15). In 2018, he made the third ascent of the deep-water soloing route, Es Pontàs at 9a+ (5.15a).

Results

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Climbing World Cup

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Discipline[3] 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Lead 22 22 43 - - - - 33 - 17
Bouldering - - - 33 20 8 1 2 9 7
Speed - - - - - - - - - 29
Combined - - - - - - - 5 - 7

Climbing World Championships

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Discipline[1] 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018
Lead 30 - - 30 - 29
Bouldering 39 46 5 3 27 9
Speed - - - 30 - 33
Combined - - - 2 - 3

Climbing European Championships

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Discipline[1] 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 41 - - 21
Bouldering - 20 1 1
Speed - - - 23
Combined - - - 1

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

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Bouldering

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Season[1] Gold Silver Bronze Total
2012 1 1
2013 1 1 2
2014 3 2 5
2015 1 1
2016 1 1
2017 1 1
2018 0
2019 1 1
Total 6 4 2 12

Rock climbing

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9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Pati noso - Siurana (ESP) - April 27, 2011
  • Bah Bah Black Sheep - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2010

8C (V15):

8B+ (V14):

  • Jour de Chasse - Fontainebleau (FRA) - December 2013 - First ascent. Hojer graded it a soft 8C, possibly because he did not use a heel hook that, according to some repeaters, makes it easier to climb.[8]
  • Dreamtime - Cresciano (CHE) - February 18, 2013. Rated 8C by Hojer, who described it as "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried.."[9]

References

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  1. ^ a b c d e IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Hojer's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  2. ^ "These Six Climbers Are Now Going to the Olympics". Gripped Magazine. 28 November 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  3. ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  4. ^ Quoi de Neuf 8c jan hojer
  5. ^ Hojer sends The Story of Two Worlds V15
  6. ^ Le Marathon de Boissy 8c Boissy aux Cailles
  7. ^ Jan Hojer repeating The Big Island (V15) on ukclimbing.com, Incl. Video.
  8. ^ Comments about Jour de Chasse on 8a.nu
  9. ^ Hojer's boulders on 8a.nu
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