The Wheel of Life is a 21-metre (69 ft) long sandstone bouldering route on the roof of the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia. When first solved, it was graded at 8C+ (V16), one of the world's first-ever boulder routes at that grade. With repeats, it was graded at 8C (V15), and some consider it to really be a sport climbing traverse route, at the sport grade of 9a (5.14d).
| The Wheel of Life | |
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| Location | Grampians National Park, Australia |
| Coordinates | 37°12′28″S 142°23′59″E / 37.20778°S 142.39972°E |
| Climbing area | Hollow Mountain Cave |
| Route type | Bouldering |
| Vertical gain | 21 metres (69 ft) (length of roof) |
| Grade | 8C (V15) (as boulder route); 9a (5.14d) (as sport climb) |
| First ascent | Dai Koyamada, May 12, 2004 |
History
editThe sandstone roof of the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians attracted some of the leading boulderers, including Austrian Klem Loskot, Swiss Fred Nicole, and Dutchman Toni Lamprecht, who had created a web of hard bouldering routes. In 2000, when Nicole solved Sleepy Hollow at V12 (8A+), it opened up the possibility of linking up a chain of all the routes across the roof of the cave, namely: Loskot's X-treme Cool V9 (7C), Nicole's Sleepy Hollow, Loskot's Cave Man V9 (7C), Loskot's Dead Can't Dance V11 (8A), and finally exiting via Loskot's Rave Heart V8 (7B/7B+).[1]
Japanese climber Dai Koyamada traveled to the Hollow Mountain Cave in April 2004, with a plan to spend over 50 days bouldering in the area and working on the full link-up. As well as repeating many routes and creating many new routes in the area, he linked up Sleepy Hollow, Cave Man and Dead Can't Dance into a route he called Sleepy Rave and graded at V15 (8C).[1] On May 12, 2004, Koyamada completed the full 70-move link-up and called it The Wheel of Life and proposed a boulder grade of V16 (8C+), which would have made it the world's first-ever boulder at that grade.[1]
It took three years for the first repeat, which was by Australian climber Chris Webb Parsons in 2007.[2] On the recovery path from a serious injury, American climber Ethan Pringle made the third ascent in 2010 and suggested that the significant length of the route made it more akin to a sport climbing route, which he felt could be at sport-grade 9a (5.14d).[3] American climber Dave Graham made the sixth ascent in 2012 and said that "For myself, it's not possible to compare it to other boulder problems, due to its length. I must regard it as a [sport] route", and that "The breakdown of the climb puts it in a league above 9a's that I have climbed, which makes me believe its 9a+".[4][5] In 2013, American climber Daniel Woods made the ninth ascent and felt that it was no harder than V15 (8C) as a boulder route, or 9a (5.14d) (Ewbank 35) as a sport climbing route, because of the rests between sections.[6]
Wood's grading became the consensus for the route,[7][8] and by 2016, the additional development of kneepads that can be used for extended knee bar rests between the sections, has if anything slightly further softened the consensus grade.[9]
Variations
editIn November 2012, Australian climber James Kassey linked The Wheel of Life to Amniotic World V9 (7C), and called it The Wheel of Life Direct.[10] Kassey's variation was repeated in 2015 by Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven, who felt that it did not change the then consensus grading of V15 (8C) (as a boulder route) or 9a (5.14d) Ewbank 35 (as a sport climbing route).[7][8]
Ascents
edit
The Wheel of Life has been ascended by:
- 1st. Dai Koyamada on May 12, 2004[1][11]
- 2nd. Chris Webb (now Taylor) Parsons on October 13, 2007[2][12]
- 3rd. Ethan Pringle in June 2010[3][13]
- 4th. James Kassay in September 2011[14]
- 5th. Ben Cossey on 30 October 2011[7]
- 6th. Dave Graham in June 2012[4][5]
- 7th. Ian Dory in June 2012.[16]
- 8th. Alexander Megos in July 2013[17][18][19]
- 9th. Daniel Woods in July 2013[6][20]
- 10th. Jorg Verhoeven in November 2015; also made 2nd ascent of Kassy's The Wheel of Life Direct[7][8]
- 11th. Alex Barrows in May 2016[9]
- 12th. Tom O'Halloran in October 2017[21]
- 13th. Jake Bresnehan in September 2018[22]
- 14th. Matt Hoschke in Feb 2019
Filmography
edit- Documentary on Koyamada's the first ascent: Naito Naoya (Director), Chie Sasak (Director) (2004). The Wheel of Life – Dai Koyamada (Motion picture). Frontier Spirit Productions. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
See also
edit- History of rock climbing
- List of grade milestones in rock climbing
- Dreamtime, famous V15 (8C) boulder in Cresciano, Switzerland
- Midnight Lightning, famous V8 (7B/7B+) boulder in Camp 4 (Yosemite)
- The Mandala, famous V12 (8A+) boulder at The Buttermilks
References
edit- ^ a b c d MacDonald, Dougald (17 May 2004). "Koyamada Completes V16". Climbing. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ a b MacDonald, Dougald (15 October 2007). "Second Ascent of V16 Boulder". Climbing. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ a b Fox, Amanda (24 June 2010). "The Wheel of Life 3rd Ascent: Interview with Ethan Pringle". Climbing. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ a b Larssen, Jens (13 June 2012). "Graham comments The Wheel of Life". 8a.nu. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ a b "Dave Graham chains 'The wheel of life' in the Grampians" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). 11 June 2012. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ a b "Daniel Woods: "The Wheel of Life is a 9a track without plates"" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). 23 August 2013. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ a b c d "Jorg Verhoeven repeats 'The wheel of life' 8C and compares it with 'The nose'" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). 6 November 2015. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ a b c "Jorg Verhoeven Sends Wheel of Life V15". Gripped Magazine. 4 November 2015. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ a b Berry, Nathalie (6 June 2016). "Wheel of Life 8C for Alex Barrows". UKClimbing. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ a b Pohl, Bjorn (16 November 2012). "James Kassay Gets FA of Wheel of Life Direct, Australia". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ Pohl, Bjorn (27 June 2013). "The wheel of life direct, ~8C+". UKClimbing. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ Brunkhorst, Chelsea (15 December 2014). "Spotlight: The Double Life of Chris Webb Parsons". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ Fox, Amanda (17 August 2011). "Ethan Pringle on The Wheel of Life (V16/5.14d)". Climbing. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ Fox, Amanda (8 September 2011). "Wheel of Life (V16/5.14d) Repeated by Kassay". Climbing. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ Parker, Chris (27 June 2023). "Video: James Kassay on the First Ascent of The Wheel of Life Direct (V16)". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ Fox, Amanda (5 July 2012). "Ian Dory Climbs The Wheel of Life". Climbing. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ "Alex Megos Sends The Wheel of Life (V15)". Rock & Ice. July 2023. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ Climbing Desk (26 October 2013). "Alexander Megos on the Wheel of Life (V15)". Climbing. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ "Alex Megos chains 'The wheel of life' in the Grampians in a couple of days" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). 11 July 2013. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ Climbing Desk (31 July 2023). "Woods Repeats Wheel of Life (V15/5.14d) in Grampians". Climbing. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ Halloran, Thomas (31 October 2017). "Tom O'Halloran Sends The Wheel of Life (8C/V15) – Grampians". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
- ^ "Jake Bresnehan Going Round and Round on "The Wheel of Life" (V15)". Rock & Ice. 9 March 2019. Retrieved 5 August 2019.
External links
edit- The Wheel of Life 8C V15, Hard Climbs (2023)
- Rock Stars: 10 of the Most Famous Boulder Problems in the World, 99Boulders (2021)
- VIDEO: Jake Bresnehan on "The Wheel of Life" (V15), Rock & Ice (2019)