Stacy Allison (born 1958), raised in Woodburn, Oregon,[1] is the first American woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest, the world's highest mountain, which she did on September 29, 1988.[2]
Biography
editStacy Allison began climbing while a biology student at Oregon State University. Starting from late 1970s, she practiced the basics of mountaineering and mastered her skills under the guidance of Scott Fischer. She attempted her first major climb at age 21 on Mount Huntington. Her climbing partner broke his ax only 200 feet from the top, and they were forced to turn around.
She continued climbing, and in 1986 went to Soviet Union with group of climbers from Mountain Madness to climb Communism Peak (Pamir Mountains). She reached the summit together with Scott Fischer and Wesley Krause. One climber of the team felt sick in lower camp and then has died.[3]
Next autumn she joined the Mount Everest expedition from Tibet (northern wall) also organised by Mountain Madness. Trying to reach the summit Stacy, Scott, Wesley and Samuel Belk have spent four nights in Camp IV but then were forced to go down because of bad weather : strong wind and snowfalls.[3]
Returning to Seattle, Scott has sent two resumes the 1988 American Everest expedition (from the South): Stacy's and his own. He persuaded her at least to go for an interview. As a result, he was rejected but Stacy was invited to join the team. Consequently, in 1988 Stacy went to Nepal and became the first American woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest.[4] Scott was trekking to Kala Pathar and they met each other at the Everest base camp.[3]
On September 29 Stacy successfully reached the summit. Three days later, On October 2, Peggy Luce Gudgell of the same team became a second American woman who reached the Everest summit.[5]
In 1993 Stacy was a team leader of K2 attempt.[3]
She was later part of a team that marked the first successful all-women ascent of Ama Dablam, a mountain of 22,495 ft.[6]
She is the co-author with Peter Ames Carlin of Beyond the Limits: A Woman's Triumph on Everest and the author of Many Mountains to Climb: Reflections on Competence, Courage, and Commitment.
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ "Stacy Allison Oral History Interview - July 21, 2014 - Special Collections & Archives Research Center, Oregon State University Libraries". scarc.library.oregonstate.edu. 2014-07-21. Retrieved 2022-01-14.
- ^ Bryant, Nelson (1988-12-04). "Outdoors; AMERICAN WOMAN AT THE SUMMIT". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2022-01-14.
- ^ a b c d Birkby, Robert (2008). Mountain Madness: Scott Fischer, Mount Everest and a Life Lived On High. New York, NY: Citadel Press/Kensington Publishing Corp. ISBN 9780806528755. OCLC 882611111.
- ^ Robertson, Anne (January 26, 2001). "A Woman's Vision". The Business Journal.
- ^ Brodeur, Nicole (2015-11-09). "Climbing like a girl? That's a compliment". Seattle Times. Retrieved 2022-01-14.
- ^ "EverestHistory.com: Stacy Allison". www.everesthistory.com. Retrieved 2022-01-14.