The women's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It took place between 4 and 6 August 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo.[1] 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.
| Women's combined at the Games of the XXXII Olympiad | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 Olympic sport climbing | |||||||||||||
| Venue | Aomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo | ||||||||||||
| Dates | 4 August 2021 (qualification) 6 August 2021 (final) | ||||||||||||
| Competitors | 20 from 15 nations | ||||||||||||
| Medalists | |||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
The medals for the competition were presented by Ivo Ferriani, IOC Executive Member, Italy, Olympian; and the medalists' bouquets were presented by Marco Maria Scolaris, IFSC President; Italy.
Qualification edit
Competition format edit
In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals.[2]
In speed climbing, climbers raced against each others in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Finals. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest winning.
In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.
In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.
Route-setting edit
Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.
The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States.[3][4]
The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan.[5]
Records edit
Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.
| Speed records | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| World record |  Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) |
6.964 | Moscow, Russia | 21 November 2020 |
| Olympic record | Not established | – | – | – |
The following records were established during the competition:
| Date | Round | Climber | Nation | Time | Record |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| August 4 | Speed Qualification | Aleksandra Mirosław |  Poland
|
6.97[6] | OR |
| August 6 | Speed Final | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland
|
6.84[7] | WR |
Schedule edit
All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)
| Date[8] | Time | Round |
|---|---|---|
| Wednesday, 4 August 2021 | 17:00 | Speed Qualification |
| 18:00 | Bouldering Qualification | |
| 21:10 | Lead Qualification | |
| Friday, 6 August 2021 | 17:30 | Speed Final |
| 18:30 | Bouldering Final | |
| 21:10 | Lead Final |
Results edit
Qualification edit
The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the finals.
| Rank | Climber | Nation | Speed[9] | Bouldering[10] | Lead[11] | Total[12] | Notes | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | B | CP | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | Results | CP | HR | TFT | CP | |||||
| 1 | Janja Garnbret |  Slovenia |
9.44 | 14 | T1z1 | T1z1 | T1z1 | T1z1 | 4T4z 4 4 | 1 | 30 | 4 | 56.00 | Q | ||
| 2 | Seo Chae-hyun |  South Korea |
10.01 | 17 | T3z1 | T2z2 | z1 | z1 | 2T4z 5 5 | 5 | 40+ | 1 | 85.00 | Q | ||
| 3 | Miho Nonaka |  Japan |
7.55 | 4 | T2z1 | z1 | z1 | – | 1T3z 2 3 | 8 | 30+ | 3 | 96.00 | Q | ||
| 4 | Akiyo Noguchi | Japan |
8.23 | 9 | T2z1 | z1 | T2z1 | T1z1 | 3T4z 5 4 | 3 | 27+ | 6 | 162.00 | Q | ||
| 5 | Brooke Raboutou |  United States |
8.67 | 12 | T2z1 | T1z1 | z1 | T1z1 | 3T4z 4 4 | 2 | 26+ | 3:40 | 8 | 192.00 | Q | |
| 6 | Jessica Pilz |  Austria |
8.51 | 11 | T3z1 | z3 | z1 | – | 1T3z 3 5 | 9 | 33+ | 2 | 198.00 | Q | ||
| 7 | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland |
6.97 OR | 1 | – | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 20 | 12 | 19 | 380.00 | Q | ||
| 8 | Anouck Jaubert |  France |
7.12 | 2 | T4z1 | – | – | – | 1T1z 4 1 | 13 | 16+ | 2:14 | 15 | 390.00 | Q | |
| 9 | Viktoria Meshkova |  ROC |
9.54 | 15 | T6z1 | T2z2 | z1 | z1 | 2T4z 8 5 | 6 | 29+ | 5 | 450.00 | |||
| 10 | Shauna Coxsey |  Great Britain |
9.65 | 16 | T2z1 | T1z1 | z1 | z1 | 2T4z 3 4 | 4 | 21+ | 2:23 | 13 | 832.00 | ||
| 11 | Kyra Condie | United States |
8.08 | 7 | T4z1 | – | z1 | z3 | 1T3z 4 5 | 11 | 22+ | 11 | 847.00 | |||
| 12 | Song Yiling |  China |
7.46 | 3 | z5 | – | – | – | 0T1z 0 5 | 19 | 13+ | 18 | 1026.00 | |||
| 13 | Julia Chanourdie | France |
8.17 | 8 | z1 | z7 | z1 | – | 0T3z 0 9 | 15 | 25+ | 9 | 1080.00 | |||
| 14 | Alannah Yip |  Canada |
7.99 | 6 | z1 | – | z1 | – | 0T2z 0 2 | 16 | 21+ | 2:14 | 12 | 1152.00 | ||
| 15 | Laura Rogora |  Italy |
10.50 | 19 | z1 | z2 | T1z1 | z1 | 1T4z 1 5 | 7 | 25 | 10 | 1330.00 | |||
| 16 | Petra Klingler |  Switzerland |
8.42 | 10 | T3z1 | z3 | z4 | – | 1T3z 3 8 | 10 | 16+ | 1:49 | 14 | 1400.00 | ||
| 17 | Iuliia Kaplina | ROC |
7.65 | 5 | z2 | – | – | – | 0T1z 0 2 | 18 | 14+ | 17 | 1530.00 | |||
| 18 | Mia Krampl | Slovenia |
10.43 | 18 | z1 | z1 | z1 | z2 | 0T4z 0 5 | 14 | 26+ | 3:16 | 7 | 1764.00 | ||
| 19 | Oceana Mackenzie |  Australia |
8.83 | 13 | T3z1 | – | z1 | – | 1T2z 3 2 | 12 | 15+ | 16 | 2496.00 | |||
| 20 | Erin Sterkenburg |  South Africa |
11.10 | 20 | z1 | – | – | – | 0T1z 0 1 | 17 | 7+ | 20 | 6800.00 | |||
Final edit
| Rank | Climber | Nation | Speed[13] | Bouldering[14] | Lead[15] | Total [16] | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Quarterfinals | Semifinals | Finals | CP | 1 | 2 | 3 | Results | CP | HR | CP | |||||||
| R | T | R | T | R | T | ||||||||||||
 |
Janja Garnbret | Slovenia |
3 | 8.49 | 6 | 8.67 | 10 | 7.81 | 5 | T4z1 | T1z1 | z1 | 2T3z 5 3 | 1 | 37+ | 1 | 5 |
 |
Miho Nonaka | Japan |
4 | 8.19 | 8 | 7.76 | 11 | 7.99 | 3 | – | z4 | z1 | 0T2z 0 5 | 3 | 21 | 5 | 45 |
 |
Akiyo Noguchi | Japan |
2 | 8.55 | 7 | Fall | 11 | 8.42 | 4 | z5 | z2 | – | 0T2z 0 7 | 4 | 29+ | 4 | 64 |
| 4 | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland |
1 | 7.49 | 7 | 7.03 | 12 | 6.84 WR | 1 | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 8 | 9+ | 8 | 64 |
| 5 | Brooke Raboutou | United States |
4 | Fall | 6 | 8.77 | 9 | 9.06 | 7 | z5 | z3 | z2 | 0T3z 0 10 | 2 | 20+ | 6 | 84 |
| 6 | Anouck Jaubert | France |
3 | 7.40 | 8 | 7.51 | 12 | 8.84 | 2 | z2 | – | – | 0T1z 0 2 | 6 | 13+ | 7 | 84 |
| 7 | Jessica Pilz | Austria |
2 | 8.89 | 5 | 8.77 | 10 | 8.43 | 6 | z7 | z3 | – | 0T2z 0 10 | 5 | 34+ | 3 | 90 |
| 8 | Seo Chae-hyun | South Korea |
1 | 10.64 | 5 | 12.85 | 9 | 9.85 | 8 | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 7 | 35+ | 2 | 112 |
References edit
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results". Olympics. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing". Olympics. Archived from the original on 2 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Interview: Olympic Bouldering Chief Route-Setter Percy Bishton". Climbing. 20 February 2020. Archived from the original on 1 August 2021. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ "Percy Bishton, IFSC Chief Route-setter Bouldering, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 31 July 2021.
- ^ "Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Records | Tokyo 2020". olympics.com. Archived from the original on 26 September 2021. Retrieved 7 October 2021.
- ^ "Polish climber Aleksandra Miroslaw breaks speed climbing world record in Olympic final | NBC Olympics". www.nbcolympics.com. Archived from the original on 7 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results | Tokyo 2020". Olympics.com/tokyo-2020/. Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Bouldering Qualualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Lead Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Final Brackets" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Bouldering Final Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Lead Final Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
- ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Final Results Summary" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.