Nancy Noemí Silvestrini (5 April 1972; Mendoza, Argentina - 5 July 2003; Gasherbrum I, Pakistán) was an Argentinian alpinist who was known for her six summits atop Cerro Aconcagua, and for being the first Argentine woman to summit an eight-thousander.[1]

Nancy Silvestrini
Personal information
Full nameNancy Noemí Silvestrini
BornApril 5, 1972
Guaymallén Mendoza, Argentina
DiedJuly 5, 2003 (aged 51)
Gasherbrum I, Pakistan
NationalityArgentina
Career
Notable ascentsFirst Argentine woman to summit an eight-thousander

Originally trained as a computer systems analyst, she sought refuge in the mountains and began climbing in 1996 after her brother and husband were killed in separate accidents.[2] She trained at the Valentín Ugarte Guide School and worked for many years as a guide on Cerro Aconcagua (6962 m), the highest mountain in America.[3]


In 1999, she summited Argentina's Monte Pissis volcano.[2] Later she would climb Nevado Sajama and Huayna Potosí in Bolivia, and Tocllaraju in Peru.[1]

On June 1, 2003, she joined a team of Spanish climbers including Eva Zarzuelo, Jorge Egocheaga, José Manuel Buenaga for an attempt on Hidden Peak, Gasherbrum I.[4]

On July 5, 2003, at the age of 31, she summited Gasherbrum I, becoming the first Argentine woman to do so.[1] As the team descended, a strong storm battered the climbers between the summit and Camp III at 7,300 meters.[5] Nancy fell and broke her arm, but was able to recover.[6] As she got up, high winds tore Nancy and José Manuel Buenaga Villanueva from the mountain, where they fell to their deaths at 6,300m.[4] Nancy fell into a crevasse on the Pakistani side of the mountain, Buenaga Villanueva, was swept off towards the Chinese side.[2] Buenaga's body was found and buried on the mountain, Nancy's was unable to be recovered.[7]

References

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  1. ^ a b c Mujeres a la Cumbre. "Mujeres con historia: Nancy Silvestrini". Mujeres a la Cumbre. Retrieved 14 June 2024.
  2. ^ a b c Herminio Hernández, José. "Biography of Nancy Noemí Silvestrini". Argentine Mountain Cultural Center www.culturademontania.org.ar. Retrieved 14 June 2024.
  3. ^ "Nancy Silvestrini, la primera argentina en coronar un ochomil". www.notimerica.com. 5 July 2017. Retrieved 14 June 2024.
  4. ^ a b Gonzalez, Carlos (8 March 2021). "ALPINISMONLINE MAGAZINE | Noticias, Informacion, Comunidad". Alpinismoline Magazine. Retrieved 14 June 2024.
  5. ^ "Accidente en el Gasherbrum 1". Desnivel.com (in Spanish). 7 July 2003. Retrieved 14 June 2024.
  6. ^ Minoli, Micaela Blanco (9 February 2024). "El trágico desenlace de la primera andinista argentina que escaló el Himalaya". MdzOnline (in Spanish). Retrieved 14 June 2024.
  7. ^ "Accidente en el Gasherbrum 1". Desnivel.com (in Spanish). 7 July 2003. Retrieved 14 June 2024.
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