Jean-Marc Peillex (born 1 May 1954) is a French local and regional politician from the DVD / Union of Democrats and Independents / Les Républicains, currently serving as Mayor of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains and Conseiller Général of the canton of Saint-Gervais, later Conseiller Départemental of the newly formed canton Mont-Blanc in the department of Haute-Savoie. In May 2014 he was re-elected for 6 years (until 2020).

He became known nationally and internationally[1][2][3] by his long campaign for a regulation of the access to Mont Blanc, the highest summit of the Alps, via the popular Goûter Route which lies within his municipality.

Campaign for regulation

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For decades, overcrowding of the Goûter Hut and the Goûter Route became a growing problem during the summer months on Mont Blanc, more than elsewhere in the Alps, because of its implications for security and ecology, at a local level interacting with the global climate change affecting the mountain landscape and mountaineering, leading to more rockfall and crevasse forming by high-altitude permafrost degradation, which also attributed to a rise in the number of accidents with alpinists.

Because of these concerns, mountain tourism and the safety of public in the area became a controversial topic, and Peillex stood up as major spokesman about the issue, often addressed by the media requesting his comments after tragic fatal accidents and lurid incidents on the mountain.

As the accountable authority for the public order and safety in his municipality, Peillex campaigned during 15 years for regulation by means of a permit system in order to restrict the number of climbers attempting to summit the mountain via the Goûter Refuge, for both safety and ecological reasons, in his initiative “La Montagne à l'Etat Pur” (The Mountain in its purest state) to "responsibilitize" the climbers.[4]

In the debate over his propositions, he accused the neighbouring municipality Chamonix-Mont Blanc of blocking attempts to regulate the crowds of climbers, allegedly it had “sacrificed Mont Blanc on the altar of money and turned it into a new Disneyland.”[5][6][7][8][9][10]

In September 2006 Peillex hosted a public meeting to which he invited mountain guides, tour organisers and representatives of climbing organisations to discuss his ideas.[11][12][13] He put forward some fairly radical propositions; an obligatory permit – of which the number issued would be restricted by the total capacity of the refuges of Tête Rousse and the New Goûter Hut): 210 per day. Or making it obligatory for climbers to hire a guide, in order to prevent overcrowding in the mountain huts and an increasing number of inexperienced and ignorant visitors risking their lives without the skills to climb the mountain.[14][15][16][17][18][19][20][21][22][23]

Summer of 2017

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On 21 June 2017, Spanish trail runner Kilian Jornet livestreamed on his Facebook page himself on the summit ridge of Mont Blanc on running shoes and dressed in t-shirt and shorts. This footage then became controversial when the "deadly summer" of 2017 resulted in a record number of victims, including two trail runners trying to imitate this stunt.[citation needed]

The second accident happened shortly after Peillex decided on 17 August to issue an order with immediate effect by which anyone who accessed the summit should carry adequate equipment.[24][25][26][27]

He also launched a desperate rhetoric appeal to the French national government, taunting the passivity of president Macron and the responsible ministers Collomb (Interior) and Hulot (Ecology) in the debate.[28]

To enforce the equipment regulations, on 25 August, the prefect of Haute-Savoie announced a reinforcement of the control at the Tête Rousse Hut on the mountain: gendarmes will check the equipment of climbers and dissuade those ill-equipped to pursue their goal.[29][30]

In an interview with L'Express in August 2017, the Mayor believes that Mont Blanc had become "un endroit banal", a trite and sordid place. "There is a false impression of facility: Mont Blanc has been very popular in recent years, with the mistaken impression of being in an urban environment with relief everywhere."[31]

Summer of 2018

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In 2018 the authorities of the department Haute-Savoie came to terms with the laments and indignation inexorably expressed by Peillex.

During the heat wave in June 2018, Peillex and the prefect issued together an official communiqué with a negative advice, discouraging the climb, and early August 2018, another communiqué alerting for the dangers of the stonefall in the couloir.

On 13 July, Pierre Lambert, the prefect of the department Haute-Savoie in Annecy, had already followed Peillex's proposals by issuing a decree that temporarily restricted the route to climbers with a reservation for the hut, which was extended repeatedly.[32] The question was raised if such a restriction should become permanent[33][34][35][36][37][38][39][40][41][42][43]

On 17 August Peillex issued another communiqué in which he vented his indignation about "attitudes ahurrisantes et intolérables" of impetuous climbers.[44][45][46][47][48]

After another accident-ridden summer and several illustrations of the frivolity of some aspiring climbers, as well as incidental aggressive confrontations and antisocial behaviour, on 3 September Peillex could announce to impose in 2019 a permanent restriction in the form of a daily limit of 214 climbers for the route to the Goûter Refuge, according to a decision of the prefecture of the department who had finally yielded by instituting the proposed regulation.[49]

Starting 2019, climbers on the Goûter Route without guides must pick up a "free" permit from the local tourism office to prove they have a bona fide place in a refuge on a given day.[50] Peillex called it "a historic day"[51]

References

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  1. ^ Keep Our Mountains Free. And Dangerous - Francis Sanzaro in The New York Times, 13 January 2018
  2. ^ Access restrictions for climbers attempting Mont Blanc?
  3. ^ War of words over free access to Mont Blanc summit
  4. ^ Jean-Marc Peillex, maire de Saint-Gervais, la sentinelle du Mont-Blanc - Le maire de Saint-Gervais (F) dénonce le parc d’attractions qu’est devenu le toit de l’Europe. Il pointe les pseudo-alpinistes en baskets et certains guides peu scrupuleux
  5. ^ Mont-Blanc, le maire de Saint-Gervais veut responsabiliser les alpinistes
  6. ^ War of words over free access to Mont Blanc summit
  7. ^ Mont Blanc: la tribune de Jean-Marc Peillex, maire de Saint-Gervais - Réguler l'accès au mont Blanc pour faire face à la surfréquentation et à l'échec de la prévention
  8. ^ Voie d'accès du mont-Blanc par Saint-Gervais: 15 ans sur la voie de la réglementation
  9. ^ La montagne à l’état pur
  10. ^ Le maire de Chamonix… et celui de Saint Gervais
  11. ^ Tourist stream turns Mont Blanc slopes yellow
  12. ^ La gratuité de l'accès au mont Blanc en question
  13. ^ Climbing and conservation: Mont Blanc and a mountain of rubbish
  14. ^ Mont Blanc: mayor tries to stop ill-equipped 'hotheads' tackling peak
  15. ^ Obligatory permit to climb Mont Blanc?
  16. ^ The Deadly Mountains: Why More Inexperienced Climbers Are Dying
  17. ^ Italian mountaineers criticise day-trippers for tackling Alpine peaks in shorts and trainers
  18. ^ Mont Blanc officials condemn 'stupidity' of tourist climbers as Irishman falls to death
  19. ^ VIDEO: Watch 'adrenaline junkie' escape avalanche with his young KIDS
  20. ^ Mont Blanc plan to scare novice climbers from corridor of death
  21. ^ Le gendarme et les valeurs - La mondialisation du mont Blanc 5/6: Balayant les problèmes de sécurité posés par le Grand Couloir, le maire de Saint-Gervais-les-Bains a fait de l'interdiction du camping sur le massif son cheval de bataille. Au grand désarroi des alpinistes
  22. ^ Mont Blanc mayor angered by 'ad hoc alpinists' who treat Europe's highest peak like 'amusement park' - Polish climber who demands to be airlifted off Mont Blanc because he did not want to walk back down invokes the wrath of locals who warn the perilous mountain is no "amusement park"
  23. ^ Trash on Mont Blanc Prompts Calls to Limit Hikers
  24. ^ Mont Blanc: French mayor to fine badly prepared climbers
  25. ^ Mayor of French town Saint-Gervais plans to fine ill-equipped Mont Blanc climbers - Jean-Marc Peillex will ask local police for help enforcing the new rules
  26. ^ Mont Blanc route kit requirements enforced - New by-law lists minimum equipment list with immediate effect
  27. ^ Wichtigste Route auf den Montblanc ab nun mit Mindestausrüstung
  28. ^ Accident mortel au Mont-Blanc: le coup de gueule du maire de Saint-Gervais
  29. ^ Climbing Mont Blanc: security checkpoint at the Tete Rousse Hut
  30. ^ French police on Mont Blanc duty try to keep climbers in line
  31. ^ Accidents mortels sur le Mont Blanc: "Il faut siffler la fin de la récréation"
  32. ^ Reconduction des dispositions de l’arrêté préfectoral portant restriction temporaire d’accès au sommet du Mont-Blanc via le refuge du Goûter
  33. ^ Mont Blanc deaths spark calls to end 'free-for-all'
  34. ^ Haute-Savoie: Les accès au Mont-Blanc toujours restreints par mesure de précaution. Les accès au Mont-Blanc (Haute-Savoie) par l'itinéraire classique sont resteints depuis le 14 juillet par arrêté préfectoral...
  35. ^ Mont-Blanc: La limitation d'accès peut-elle devenir permanente? Un arrêté préfectoral pris il y a plusieurs semaines restreint l'accès au Mont-Blanc...
  36. ^ Troppo caldo sul Monte Bianco: sconsigliata l'ascensione sulla via normale del Gouter
  37. ^ Canicule : l’ascension du mont Blanc fortement déconseillée
  38. ^ Alerte aux chutes de pierres dans la voie normale d’ascension du mont Blanc
  39. ^ Saint-Gervais-les-Bains : « Les consommateurs d’exploits, dehors ! »La rédaction 5 septembre 2018 Saint-Gervais-les-Bains : « Les consommateurs d’exploits, dehors! - Peillex ne veut plus de la surconsommation du Mont-Blanc
  40. ^ Le maire de Saint-Gervais dénonce «les bouffons» qui sont sur le Mont-Blanc
  41. ^ Jean-Marc Peillex, maire de Saint-Gervais : "Les bouffons sont toujours sur le Mont-Blanc"
  42. ^ INTERVIEW: Mayor Jean-Marc Peillex on the Future of Mont Blanc
  43. ^ The Mayor of Saint-Gervais intends to restrict the access to Mont Blanc
  44. ^ Haute-Savoie: «Le summum de l'irrespect est-il atteint?» sur le Mont-Blanc, s'interroge le maire de Saint-Gervais - COUP DE GUEULE - Le maire de Saint-Gervais s'alarme des comportements irrespectueux qui se multiplient selon lui lors de l'ascension du Mont-Blanc...
  45. ^ «Le Mont-Blanc est devenu un parc d’attractions» : le coup de gueule du maire de Saint-Gervais
  46. ^ Insultes, bagarres, vols de matériel : le maire de Saint-Gervais condamne les "bouffons" qui grimpent sur le Mont-Blanc
  47. ^ Mont-Blanc: le maire s'indigne du comportement "intolérable" des "bouffons" alpinistes
  48. ^ Mont-Blanc: le cri d'alarme du maire de Saint-Gervais Jean-Marc Peillex - Insultes, coup de poing et faux guides... L'irrespect gagne le toit de l'Europe cet été.
  49. ^ Permit to climb Mont Blanc: what do we know about the "white brigades" who will be in charge of the control?
  50. ^ the Mayor on Twitter - Jean-Marc PEILLEX @PEILLEX: "I am proud to announce that in 2019 the #montblanc will not be flouted."
  51. ^ In 2019 a permit is needed to climb to the top of Mont Blanc
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