Gillis Mowbray or Gilles Moubray was a servant of Mary, Queen of Scots, associated with a small collection of jewellery held by the National Museums of Scotland, known as the "Penicuik jewels".[1]

Career

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Gillis was a daughter of John Mowbray of Barnbougle and Elizabeth or Elspeth Kirkcaldy, a sister of the soldier William Kirkcaldy of Grange. When William Kirkcaldy of Grange was about to be executed in 1573, Gillis Mowbray's father, the Laird of Barnbougle, who was Kirkcaldy's brother-in-law, wrote to Regent Morton to plead for his life, offering money, service, and royal jewels worth £20,000 Scots.[2]

 
Barnbougle Castle

Gillis Mowbray travelled to London in 1585, hoping for permission to join her sister Barbara in Mary's household.[3] Mary wrote to Francis Walsingham for a passport for Gillis Mowbray on 30 September 1585.[4] Barbara Mowbray married Gilbert Curle, one of the secretaries of Mary, Queen of Scots at Tutbury Castle in October. Shortly after the wedding, in November, Gillis joined Mary's household, travelling first to Derby.[5][6]

Her position at first was maid to Curle's sister Elizabeth, and she was later described as one of Mary's gentlewomen.[7] In February 1586, Mary had discussions with a French visitor, Monsieur Arnault, at Chartley in the presence of Amias Powlet. She said that Gillis Mowbray had told her that James VI had sent a rich jewel to a Danish princess, a token of marriage negotiations. Gillis had heard the story when the Danish ambassadors were in Scotland before she left for London.[8]

Mary bequeathed Geillis Mowbray jewels, money, and clothes, including a pair of gold bracelets, a crystal jewel set in gold, and a red enamelled "oxe" of gold.[9] She kept Mary's virginals, a kind of harpsichord, and her cittern.[10] At Mary's funeral, Gillis or Barbara Mowbray, or both sisters, remained in Peterborough Cathedral with Andrew Melville of Garvock, when Mary's other household servants left during the Protestant service.[11]

 
Mary, Queen of Scots gave some of her jewels to Gillis Mowbray

In 1603 Gillis' half-brother Francis Mowbray fell to his death from Edinburgh Castle.[12]

Penicuik jewels

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Gillis Mowbray married John Smith of Barnton and was an ancestor of the Clerk of Penicuik family. Their son was John Smith of Grothill (at Craigleith), and their daughter Gillis or Egidia Smith married William Gray of Pittendrum.[13][14][15] In 1622, John Smith built the house in Edinburgh now called "Lady Stair's House".[16] The exact details of the family tree may be unclear.[17]

It is thought that Mary gave jewels to Gillis Mowbray, known today as the "Penicuik jewels" and displayed at the National Museum of Scotland.[18] The jewels include a pendant with a miniature portraits of Mary and James VI, and gold filigree pomander beads (for perfume) and spacer beads, now strung as a necklace.[19][20]

Filigree gold beads made to hold "musk" perfume were used in bracelets, necklaces, and rosaries. Mary had a little "carcan" necklace with small grains of gold filled with perfume with little gold grains as spacer beads known as entredeux, and a paternoster or rosary with 36 beads for perfume with matching headdress and cottoire (a chain descending from a girdle).[21] Her jeweller in France, Robert Mangot, had made similar gold beads for her.[22] Mangot made beads called "gerbes", the word appears as "jarbis" in Scots for gold entredeux spacer beads.[23][24] A crucifix and rosary with filigree beads, associated by tradition with Mary, was in the collection of a Newcastle antiquary, George Mennell, in the 19th century.[25]

Possibly, the Penicuik beads may once been a pair of bracelets,[26] an item in Mary's bequest to Gillis.[27] Mary's inventories mention several pairs of bracelets, including a pair suitable for perfume, and seventy large gold "grains" made in two pieces to hold perfume.[28] In 1577, Mary's secretary Claude Nau asked his brother in Paris to buy bracelets made in the latest fashion.[29]

References

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  1. ^ Walter Warren Seton, The Penicuik Jewels of Mary Queen of Scots (London: Philip Allan, 1923).
  2. ^ Calendar State Papers Scotland: 1571–1574, vol. 4 (Edinburgh, 1905), pp. 603-4.
  3. ^ Rosalind K. Marshall, Queen Mary's Women: Female Relatives, Servants, Friends and Enemies of Mary, Queen of Scots (John Donald, 2006), p. 188.
  4. ^ Alexandre Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stewart, 7 (London, 1844), pp. 335-6.
  5. ^ William Boyd, Calendar State Papers Scotland: 1585-1586, vol. 8 (Edinburgh, 1914), pp. 115 no. 147, 125 no. 163, 130 no. 172.
  6. ^ John Morris, Letter-books of Amias Poulet (London, 1874), pp. 100-101, 107
  7. ^ William Boyd, Calendar State Papers Scotland: 1585-1586, vol. 8 (Edinburgh, 1914), p. 153 no. 200, 155 no. 203, 412 no. 440: The Letter-books of Amias Paulet, p. 298.
  8. ^ Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 8 (Edinburgh, 1914), p. 235 no. 287.
  9. ^ Anna Groundwater, 'Tracing royal Stewart jewels in the archives', Decoding the Jewels: Renaissance Jewellery in Scotland (Sidestone Press: NMS, 2024), p. 161.
  10. ^ Alexandre Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 7 (London, 1852), pp. 259, 265, 269, 272.
  11. ^ John Morris, The Letter-books of Amias Paulet (London, 1874), p. 372.
  12. ^ John Graham Dalyell, 'Diarey of Robert Birrel', p. 57: Robert Pitcairn, Ancient Criminal Trials in Scotland, 2:2 (Edinburgh, 1833), p. 408.
  13. ^ Siobhan Talbott, 'Letter-Book of John Clerk of Penicuik', Miscellany of the Scottish History Society, XV, (Woodbridge, 2014), pp. 11, 31.
  14. ^ Walter Seton, Penicuik Jewels (London, 1923), p. 29
  15. ^ John Geddie, The Fringes of Edinburgh (Edinburgh, 1926), p. 34.
  16. ^ Laura A. M. Stewart, Urban politics and British civil wars : Edinburgh, 1617-53 (Brill, 2006), p. 122.
  17. ^ Lyndsay McGill, "Scottish Renaissance Jewels in the National Collection: making and makers", Anna Groundwater, Decoding the Jewels: Renaissance Jewellery in Scotland (Sidestone: NMS, 2024), pp. 112–113.
  18. ^ Rosalind Marshall & George Dalgleish, The Art of Jewellery in Scotland (Edinburgh, 1991), p. 14.
  19. ^ Anna Groundwater, Decoding the Jewels: Renaissance Jewellery in Scotland (Sidestone: NMS, 2024), pp. 111–113, 156–157, 160.
  20. ^ Anna Groundwater, "Materialising Mary in a Museum", Steven J. Reid, Afterlife of Mary, Queen of Scots (Edinburgh, 2024), pp. 269–272.
  21. ^ Anna Groundwater, Decoding the Jewels: Renaissance Jewellery in Scotland (Sidestone: NMS, 2024), p. 156: Joseph Robertson, Inventaires de la Royne Descosse (Edinburgh, 1863), pp. 104–105.
  22. ^ Thierry Crépin-Leblond, Marie Stuart: le destin français d'une reine d'Écosse (Paris, 2008), pp. 56, 70: Alphonse de Ruble, La première jeunesse de Marie Stuart (Paris, 1891), 37-40, 297–300
  23. ^ Inventory of Original Documents in the Archives of George Heriot's Hospital (Edinburgh, 1857), pp. 23-4 noted as "jerlis": Thomas Thomson, Collection of Inventories (Edinburgh, 1815), pp. 262 no. 9, 264 no. 25, 290 no. 25
  24. ^ "Jarbe", DOST/DSL
  25. ^ Simon Swynfen Jervis, "Antiquarian Gleanings in the North of England", Antiquaries Journal, 85 (2005), pp. 308, 315 fn. 135, 328, pl. 21: William Bell Scott, Antiquarian Gleanings in the North of England (London, 1851), pp. 10, pl. 18
  26. ^ Rosalind K. Marshall, Mary, Queen of Scots: In my end is my beginning (NMS, 2013), p. 83.
  27. ^ Walter Seton, Penicuik Jewels (London, 1923), p. 39.
  28. ^ Joseph Robertson, Inventaires de la Royne Descosse (Edinburgh, 1863), pp. 106, 120.
  29. ^ John Daniel Leader, Mary Queen of Scots in Captivity (Sheffield, 1880), p. 399.
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