 |
 Igor Chaplynsky | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Main discipline | Mountaineer |
| Born | Zabolotiv, Ukraine |
| Nationality | Ukrainian |
| Career | |
| Notable ascents | Piolets d'Or 2007 |
Igor Chaplynsky (Ihor Orestovych Chaplynskyi) is a Ukrainian mountaineer.
Biography
editBorn in Zabolotiv, Sniatyn district, Ivano-Frankivsk region, Ukraine.[citation needed]
In 1976, he entered the Faculty of Mechanics and Mathematics at Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, graduating in 1981.[citation needed] During his studies, he was an active member of the University mountain tourism club (headed by Borys Zakharchenko), and at the same time became interested in rock climbing and mountaineering.[citation needed]
After graduation, he stayed to live and work in Kyiv.[citation needed]
Sporting achievements
edit- Candidate for Master of Sports since 1986, Master of Sports since 1991[citation needed]
- Leading mountaineering coach of Ukraine in 1991–1994[citation needed]
- He has climbed a number of 7,000-metre peaks (including all the "Soviet" ones, except for Jengish Chokusu).[citation needed]
Among the known climbs (all of them are of the VI category of difficulty, i.e. the highest):
- Dhaulagiri (8167 m, Dhaulagiri massif, Nepal) – 1994 (classic route)[citation needed]
- Aksu (5217 m, Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay (Fan Mountains)) – 1987 (Kavunenko's route), 1988 (Chaplynsky's route), 1991 (Kostenko's route variant)[citation needed]
- Shingu Charpa (5800 m, Karakoram), 2006 (first ascent, northern ridge)[1] – its participants Igor Chaplynsky, Andriy Radiontsev and Orest Verbytsky were nominated for the Piolets d'Or (Golden Ice Axe), which was awarded on 2 February 2007. (Photo report from the award ceremony "16 Piolet d'Or-2007" is available on the website "mountain.ru"[2];
- Denali (McKinley) (6168 m, Cordillera, Alaska) – 2010[citation needed]
- Ushba (4690 m, Svaneti, Greater Caucasus) – 5 times, including 1993 – North Ushba, 1993 (Anatoliy Kustovsky's route), 2005 (Myshlyaev's route), 2011 (new route "Kharakternyk").[citation needed]
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Awards and honours
editIgor Chaplynsky is the recipient of several high honours for his outstanding achievements in mountaineering. Among them: 1) the Master of Sports award No. 266561, presented to Igor Chaplynsky for his achievements in mountaineering[citation needed] 2) the Order of Merit III class, No. 4027, awarded to Igor Chaplynsky on 9.10.2001[citation needed], 3) "Golden Ice Axe" as the highest award in mountaineering, awarded on 26.01.2007.[citation needed]
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Order of Merit III class, no. 4027. -
The Golden Ice Axe
Public life
editHe is an advocate of "eco-life", living in harmony with nature.[3] He categorically rejects life on asphalt, water of unknown quality from the tap, and food of unknown quality from shops.[citation needed] He lives in a manor built by himself from natural materials.[3]
In the spring of 2014, Igor Chaplinsky published an "Appeal to Russian climbers" on sports web resources.[4][failed verification]
He actively cooperates with volunteer groups that help soldiers on the frontlines of the Russian-Ukrainian war of 2014-2023.[citation needed] A significant amount of aid sent through volunteers to support the army (sewing jackets and special equipment, repairing drones, etc.) is never advertised by Ihor Orestovych, and it remains known only to a narrow circle of people involved in this assistance.[citation needed]
References
edit- ^ Свобода, Радіо (5 February 2008). "Ширгу-Чарпа — дуже красива гора, на якій ще ніхто ніколи не був.Першопрохід Ігора Чаплинського". Радіо Свобода. Archived from the original on 14 August 2015.
- ^ http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=1637 16 Piolet d'Or-2007
- ^ a b "Семья Чаплинских на Киевщине живет в единстве с природой". podrobnosti (in Ukrainian). 9 July 2012. Retrieved 6 November 2023.
- ^ http://www.alpine.in.ua/index.php?section=news_art&id=1736.
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Category:Mountaineering Category:Mountain_climbers Category:Eight-thousanders Category:Seven-thousanders Category:Mountaineering_in_Ukraine