Wikipedia

Boone Speed

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Boone Speed (born August 29, 1965) is an American photographer[1] and figure[2] within the sport of rock climbing. The only son of Western sculptor[3] Ulysess Grant Speed (January 6, 1930 – October 1, 2011), Boone was raised outside of Provo, Utah, and studied Graphic Design at Brigham Young University.

Boone Speed
Personal information
NationalityAmerican
Born (1965-08-29) August 29, 1965 (age 58)
Provo, Utah
OccupationPhotographer / climber
Height6 ft 1 in (185 cm)
Weight150 lb (68 kg)
Climbing career
Highest grade

Climbing career edit

Boone began climbing in the summer of 1985 near Salt Lake City, Utah. By the spring of 1987 Boone had climbed the most challenging routes in the region,[4] and began traveling to explore new crags in other undeveloped areas, including the sandstone of Red Rocks, outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, American Fork Canyon,[5] Virgin River Gorge and Logan Canyon, Utah, where Boone became the first American to climb the grade of 5.14b with his first ascent of "Super Tweak"[6] in 1994.

Boone has been on the cover of Climbing Magazine twice and has had published writing and photography in climbing, lifestyle and travel magazines worldwide.[7]

Timeline edit

  • 1988 Began developing American Fork's Hell Cave[8] is home to many 1990's era test pieces including Speed's Power Junkie (5.14a) and his hardest route, "Ice Cream" (5.14c)
  • 1989 began to develop the Virgin River Gorge, where Boone established the demanding classics "Fall Of Man" 5.13b (1990) and "Route of all Evil" 5.14a (1994)
  • In August 1991, Boone was Climbing Magazine's cover feature and American Fork Canyon Climbing was its cover story, establishing Salt Lake City as a destination climbing area as well as an influence on the "limestone revolution" in America
  • 1990 Boone was featured in the video "Masters Of Stone" on Dead Souls (5.13d) and Burning (5.13b) in American Fork's "Hell Cave"
  • 1990 began to develop Logan Canyon, where Boone became the first American to successfully establish a consensus 5.14b route, "Super Tweak" in 1994
  • 1991 began employment as designer at Black Diamond Equipment
  • 1994 First ascent of Super Tweak featured in the video "Masters Of Stone 3"[9]
  • 1995 Discovered Joe's Valley for bouldering (on tip from Conrad Anker[10]) and established first problems there
  • 1995 Original partner of innovative climbing company Pusher where Boone became an influential handhold and training board shaper
  • 1996 Pictured on cover of Climbing magazine (for second time) and feature article entitled "Boone Speed Tells All"[11]
  • 1997 met Chris Sharma at base of "Necessary Evil" and established ongoing friendship
  • 1997 climbed first ascent of "Ice Cream" 5.14c becoming one of the first 10 climbers in the world to climb the grade[12]
  • 1997–1999 Employed by Fila as a climbing shoe designer and climbing market authenticator
  • 1999–2001 Employed as creative director and photographer for Pusher[13]
  • 2001–2007 worked as freelance designer and photographer for Bluewater Ropes and Entre Prises Climbing Walls
  • 2005 Featured Photographer at Taos Mountain Film Festival[14]
  • 2009 Photography show at Nau popup in New York
  • 2011 PDN's "The Shot" Grand Prize winner[15]
  • 2013 Photographed Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda for ESPN The Magazine "The Body Issue"[16]
  • 2014 Represented America as climbing Legend at The North Face's Kalymnos Climbing Festival[17]
  • 2015 "Frightening Nature" film accepted into Cannes Short Film Corner (Director of Photography)[18]

Filmography edit

  • "Masters of Stone"[19] (1990)
  • "Masters of Stone 3"[20] (1994)
  • "Yank on This" (1995)
  • "Three Weeks and a Day"[21] (1996)
  • "Best Forgotten Art"[22] (1996)
  • "Fast Twitch"[23] (1997)
  • "Movement" (1998)
  • "Free Hueco"[24] (1998)
  • "Frequent Flyers"[25] (2001)
  • "Best of the West"[26] (2004)
  • "Big Game"[27] (2004)
  • "King Lines"[28] (2007)
  • "Perfecto[29]" (2007)
  • "Heraklia"[30] (2008)
  • "Running From Crazy"[31] (2012)
  • "Project American Fork"[32] (2013)

References edit

  1. ^ "Photographer Boone Speed". Archived from the original on July 8, 2015. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  2. ^ "Climbing Legends – James Pearson on Boone Speed – THE NORTH FACE JOURNAL". Archived from the original on March 25, 2015. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  3. ^ "Von Allen – Marriott Library – The University of Utah". lib.utah.edu. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  4. ^ "Get Shorty – The 5 best miniature sport routes in America – Climbing". April 2009. Retrieved July 12, 2015.
  5. ^ "Documenting AF Canyon and the climbing revolution | KSL.com". www.ksl.com. Retrieved June 26, 2015.
  6. ^ "Hard rock climbs – First routes of each grade". web.stanford.edu. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  7. ^ "Top Shots: Climbing's Indelible Images by Boone Speed". rockandice.com. Archived from the original on September 5, 2015. Retrieved July 12, 2015.
  8. ^ "21 Questions with Boone Speed – Climbing". August 27, 2009. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  9. ^ "Masters of Stone". mastersofstone.com. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  10. ^ "Boone Speed Photography". Archived from the original on September 11, 2015. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  11. ^ "Boone Sheridan Speed – Photographer, Product Designer, Area Developer, entrepreneur, Smack Talker; Portland, Oregon". August 20, 2008. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  12. ^ "Hard rock climbs – First routes of each grade". web.stanford.edu. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  13. ^ "An Interview with Boone Speed: Athlete, Photographer, Innovator". December 9, 2009. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  14. ^ "This Year's Featured Films – Taos Mountain Film Festival, October 7–9, 2005". mountainfilm.net. Archived from the original on March 4, 2016. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  15. ^ "The Shot 2011". pdngallery.com. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  16. ^ "ESPN's 2013 Body Issue's Bodies We Want". Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  17. ^ "The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival". Archived from the original on June 24, 2015. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  18. ^ "FRIGHTENING NATURE". sub.festival-cannes.fr. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  19. ^ "Masters of Stone". mastersofstone.com. Retrieved June 30, 2015.
  20. ^ "Masters of Stone". mastersofstone.com. Retrieved June 30, 2015.
  21. ^ Three Weeks & A Day: The Road, Rock, Life, Reality – An Epic, ASIN 6303891942
  22. ^ "Best Forgotten Art – SteepEdge". steepedge.com. Archived from the original on September 11, 2015. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  23. ^ "Rock Climbing Media Reviews: Books, Movies, and more". chockstone.org. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  24. ^ Climbing, Crank (April 21, 2015). "The Crank Chronicles: Crank Media Review: Free Hueco!". The Crank Chronicles. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  25. ^ "Review: Big Up Productions' Progression DVD". Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  26. ^ "Best of the West climbing video download from iCLIMB.com". iclimb.com. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  27. ^ "Big game". outdoor-films.com. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  28. ^ King Lines, March 1, 2007, retrieved July 1, 2015
  29. ^ "Perfecto". outdoor-films.com. Retrieved June 30, 2015.
  30. ^ "Herakleia". Archived from the original on March 3, 2016. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
  31. ^ Running from Crazy, January 7, 2013, retrieved July 1, 2015
  32. ^ "Project American Fork – Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". dpmclimbing.com. Archived from the original on March 4, 2016. Retrieved July 1, 2015.
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